Japan Chapter 6.1: Hiroshima… Meetings with Atomic-Bomb Survivors

Saturday afternoon, October 4th, we take off from Hiroshima Airport to begin the long journey home.  What a week it’s been – this final week of our Japanese tour.

In Tottori City on Monday morning, after our two performances at Bird Theatre Festival, we are undecided how to get to Hiroshima with all of our baggage.  Six large suitcases, a number of smaller cases, and not forgetting the tatami mat used in the play as well.  

There’s a cheap bus all the way to Hiroshima, which is a very tempting option – until we discover that the bus-stop is fifty miles away.  The bullet-train beckons, but that would involve a change of trains and then hunting down at least two taxis at Hiroshima Station.  So the best option seems to be a minibus and driver – taking us from hotel door to hotel door – but this will cost a cool £500.  

I don’t even hesitate.  ‘Let’s do it – it will relieve us of so much stress.’  There have been savings in other parts of the budget so I feeI I can justify this expense.

From hotel door to hotel door; from cramped submarine-sized ‘cabin’ to stylish spacious apartment with all mod-cons – located right on Hiroshima’s Peace Boulevard.  After five nights cooped up like a budgerigar in my birdcage of a room in Tottori, at last – enough room in which to stretch out, walk about, dance around, open up my suitcases, spread all my clothes and papers about.  Room in which to think and reflect.

I feel many emotions coursing through me as the minibus draws ever nearer to the city which has taken up so much of my thinking, my feeling, my creativity, these last few years.  

Shortly after arriving, we meet up with Junko, our second wonderful Japanese collaborator for this tour, then head to the home of Toshiko Tanaka.  She is the gently inspiring 86-year-old atomic bomb survivor who I met and befriended in London last year – and who at that time invited Riko and myself to her home in Hiroshima should we ever get here. 

She’s waiting on the doorstep and when she recognizes me her face cracks open into a huge grin, a heart-melting beaming smile, as she takes my hand and says, ‘This is like a dream – a dream come true!’ 

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Performing in Amish Country – (but not for the Amish).

We leave South Bend and Notre Dame University and on Monday morning (April 14th) head for Chicago Airport – where we will fly east with all our bags and baggage.  

First class on the internal United Airlines flight is only marginally more expensive than a regular ticket – so I treat the three of us to a little more legroom (plus superior snacks) on the two hour journey and for the first – and probably last – time in my life, I sit in seat 1A: first on and first off.  A small treat for me after all the stresses and strains of dealing with my three large cases – one personal and two for the play.  

We’re met at Harrisburg Airport by the wonderful H.A. Penner, my host here previously in 2018, and Lydia, both of whom help us with our luggage into the van they’ve commandeered for three days.  We head to Lancaster County, our base for two performances in two churches – and the heart of Amish and conservative Mennonite country.  

Our hosts are Mennonites too, but they are progressive, liberal ones, with no qualms whatsoever about using cars, cellphones or electricity.  

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‘Martin Luther King and The Mistake’

That’s a rather bold opening hook to this second blog of our US adventure.  But I’ll explain shortly.  

April 4th – Day 2 – Jet-lag.  And a heating system in my otherwise lovely Airbnb that keeps erupting into life just when you least expect it – just when I’ve reached deep-state sleep.  Will earplugs keep the noise out? No chance.  

Okay.  So I head out on my first morning in Chicago for a big breakfast at a highly recommended cafe – Lula’s in Logan Square. That helps.  A cardamom bun to die for. Then a day full of nothing much – acclimatising, checking out where I can buy fruit, and reminding myself I’m not a tourist.

Day 3 – I’m a tourist.  Heading for the wonderful Art Institute – wanting to see the famous Seurat painting that inspired Sondheim’s Sunday In The Park With George.  On the L train, it’s rammed – jam-packed with hundreds of people. Are they also heading for the Seurat? No!  There are placards and banners galore – it’s a ‘Hands Off’ (our democracy) protest downtown and it’s going to be really big, someone on the train tells me.  We’re tempted to join them but our time is limited, so we wish them well when they all get off two stops before the Art Institute, leaving the train empty.

But the Art Institute isn’t empty. Justifiably.

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Meeting hibakusha – survivors of the atomic bombings

Although I’ve never actually been to Hiroshima (yet), I feel as though I have, through all my reading and research for my play THE MISTAKE.  But yesterday I was fortunate enough to get to meet two hibakusha – survivors of the atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki in August 1945 – to meet them here in London at an event organised by CND.  They were here with the Japan Peace Boat, travelling the world to share their testimonies.

The lady pictured with me is Toshiko Tanaka, a quietly inspiring woman, who was injured in the blast in Hiroshima, but survived, and despite various bomb-related illnesses over the years, is still here to tell her story.

The other survivor we heard from was Tadayoshi Ogawa, an 80-year-old gentlemen who was a baby when the bomb was dropped on Nagasaki, and again, despite various health issues is still here.

I later learnt that in recent years, Toshiko, who still lives in Hiroshima, has welcomed into her home the grandson of President Truman (the man who ordered the bombs to be dropped) and the grandson of one of the crew of the Enola Gay¸the B-29 bomber that delivered the bomb.  Such an inspiring woman – she is peace, forgiveness and reconciliation embodied.  May she live for many more years to tell her story.  Next year, when I very much hope to take THE MISTAKE to the USA and to Japan, I hope to visit her in her home in Hiroshima…